Stage 13

Into the Meseta

September 20, 2026 · Burgos to Hontanas · 20 miles

🥾 20 mi 🌤 Sunny. Blue skies. Warm. Light breeze. Little to no shade.

This morning I left behind my new friends in Burgos. Four of us attended mass at the Cathedral first and then said our goodbyes or “see you laters.” It was an emotional farewell. You get quite close to people baring your soul 8 hours a day for a week straight while experiencing joint physical challenge or trauma.

Inside of the Cathedral, Santa Iglesia Catedral Basílica Metropolitana de Santa María de Burgos, founded in 1221.
Inside of the Cathedral, Santa Iglesia Catedral Basílica Metropolitana de Santa María de Burgos, founded in 1221.

I walked alone pretty much the entire day, about 20 miles. Some of this was due to starting with ear buds, accompanied by Bon Iver.

The rest was attributed to the empty trail. Most people start walking at 6:30 to 7:30 each day. My 10:30 start time meant I was mostly alone, especially once I arrived at the high plains. I went my last two hours not seeing anyone.

The desolate Meseta.
The desolate Meseta.

I’ll be walking the Meseta until Friday when I arrive in Leon. The alone time is supposed to create space for internal reflection away from the noise.

It’s only been a day, so no epiphanies yet, but time will tell what the quiet reveals.

Through the Meseta’s hot dry climate, the sunflowers wither and lose their vibrant color, but only through this transformation can they create nourishing seeds, which I ate today right off the plant. So nutty and flavorful!
Through the Meseta’s hot dry climate, the sunflowers wither and lose their vibrant color, but only through this transformation can they create nourishing seeds, which I ate today right off the plant. So nutty and flavorful!

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