Stage 19

Let’s go camping!

September 26, 2026 · León to Hospital de Órbigo · 23.6 miles

🥾 23.6 mi 🌤 Mostly sunny transitioning to mostly cloudy

Karaoke in the big city was a blast. No regrets. But I paid for the late night and beers today. 

Not to mention, last night, over those beers, Medi and I solidified a plan for me to come by this morning to pick up his tent so I could camp tonight, a goal I had for at least one night on my Camino. 

After sleeping off the late night, picking up the tent from Medi’s albergue, and eating breakfast, it was already 10:30 a.m. by the time I hit the road, much later than I normally leave and probably not the smartest plan for a 24 mile day. 

Whether it was the night out or the extra 2-3 kg of weight from the tent and a sleeping pad I picked up this morning, I dragged today. 

Starting late generally means higher temperatures and emptier trails. The upside is that after a few social days, I looked forward to some alone time to process and reflect. 

I was greeted at the western edge of town by the brutalist architecture of the Basílica de la Virgen del Camino, officially considered to be the Spanish contemporary style. 

I entered and found mass underway, just as the liturgy of the Eucharist began. I stood at the back of the church through the Our Father and sign of peace, emotionally moved by “La paz del Señor esté siempre con vosotros.” I wished peace to the usher at the door and continued on my way, knowing how many more miles I had to go.

Basílica de la Virgen del Camino
Basílica de la Virgen del Camino

Shortly after, a fork in the path gave options for the historic route along the highway or a scenic route through through the countryside. Of course I chose the greener road. 

The day became strikingly solitary. Over many hours, I saw only four other pilgrims the rest of the day. 

Despite that, I didn’t feel lonely. The last couple days were quite social and I found myself craving the quiet time. 

I won’t lie though. It was a long day and the most physically challenging I had experienced to this point. It was also the first day I questioned whether I’d make it to my planned destination. I mostly attribute that to the extra weight and the impact it was having on my shins and feet. 

A series of novelties and delights along the way kept me going. 

Starting with mystery meat at lunch.

The meal that got me through today. I thought it was chicken when I placed my order. No, they told me, and proceeded to say a word I didn’t recognize. Based on the flavor and soft, buttery texture, my best guess, with the assistance of AI, is mollejas de ternera, sweetbreads, something I’d likely never order off a menu, but my options were limited, and it actually wasn’t half bad.
The meal that got me through today. I thought it was chicken when I placed my order. No, they told me, and proceeded to say a word I didn’t recognize. Based on the flavor and soft, buttery texture, my best guess, with the assistance of AI, is mollejas de ternera, sweetbreads, something I’d likely never order off a menu, but my options were limited, and it actually wasn’t half bad.
The trees have eyes.
The trees have eyes.
Exploring an abandoned underground storage structure, against my better judgement and until my imagination took over, and I got out of there as quickly as possible.
Open video on Vimeo
Resting on a bench when I was nearly out of energy to find someone had left a box of apples to sustain us pilgrims.
Resting on a bench when I was nearly out of energy to find someone had left a box of apples to sustain us pilgrims.
Lazy sheep dog watching over a flock of 200-300.
Lazy sheep dog watching over a flock of 200-300.
A glimpse of fall colors.
A glimpse of fall colors.
Arrival to town!
Arrival to town!
Setting up my tent before bedtime!
Setting up my tent before bedtime!
Enjoying the local flavors in town (“trout with soups”) before returning to camp for one of the best night’s rests I’ve had so far on the Camino!
Enjoying the local flavors in town (“trout with soups”) before returning to camp for one of the best night’s rests I’ve had so far on the Camino!

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