Connections and Reconnections

I slept surprisingly well in a tent last night, maybe one of my best nights’ rests on the Camino so far. The cool air and lack of nasal symphony likely helped. Being in a tent also meant I wasn’t disturbed by artificial lights or other pilgrims gathering their belongings early in the morning. Some habitually arise at 4:30. 

No disturbance coupled with physical exhaustion is a perfect formula for sleeping in. It was 7:30 when I finally opened my eyes and looked at my phone. I shot out of bed and broke down camp as quickly as I could. 

I left the campsite and had to walk through town to rejoin the Camino trail. Being a Sunday, most places were closed, so I had to depart without any coffee or breakfast. 

The next town over offered one option. A mannequin dressed as a pilgrim stood guard in front of a garage housing a simple spread of plastic wrapped pastries and fruit. I hesitated but one pilgrim inside said to come in. “It’s good.” 

I asked the owner, a man of around 70, if he had coffee and I grabbed a banana and a small bottle of juice off the table. He said he’d bring the coffee and offered some freshly squeezed OJ and bread with apple butter. 

“Sure,” I said. 

He soon brought me a half-empty glass of lukewarm bitter coffee further cooled with the addition of cold milk. The juice wasn’t bad though it was served by a hand covered in pulp. I happily took the bread with apple butter not knowing after how many miles I’d get my next meal. 

I finished what was served to me and moved on. Outside of the town and up a hill, maybe 30 minutes later, I encountered a lively food truck with upbeat music and serving coffee made to order from Italian moka pots. I stopped again to order some quality coffee and enjoy the view. 

Jacopo, a medical student from Turin, was also there. He was finishing up a conversation with some men also from Italy. Once they left, I invited him to join me. It was then I learned he spoke some English.

Jacopo and I had been on the same tempo the entire Camino, starting on the same day, but our interactions had largely been limited to a wave or a smile. We ended up walking together nearly the entire rest of the day.

We talked on and off. I appreciated that Jacopo was also comfortable with silence. It felt nice to walk together even when no words were spoken. 

Shortly before arriving in Astorga, we encountered Mike and Pascal, a lovely couple from Washington state I met maybe one week ago during second breakfast and then later over group drinks and a couple dinners subsequently. 

I saw them across the way on the pedestrian bridge over the train tracks heading into Astorga. I shouted their names, and they said they’d wait for us to catch up. What’s funny is Pascal had just said to Mike “I wonder if today is the day we run into Jeremy again.”

We snapped a photo, exchanged info, and made plans for drinks and dinner later that evening.

In the meantime, our paths diverged as we headed to our respective accommodations. Jacopo and I found a first-come, first-served albergue already with a queue of pilgrims at the door that would be opening in around 45 minutes. We set our bags down and asked the two women in front of us if they’d be leaving and, if not, if they’d be willing to watch our belongings. They confirmed they would be waiting in line and said they’d be happy to watch our stuff. I grabbed my journal out of my pack just in case, what I currently consider to be the most valuable item with me. 

It was 12:45, and we hadn’t eaten. We began our search for lunch. It was an exercise of humility and gratitude. 

At each potential spot, I observed Jacopo inspect the prices. These were not expensive restaurants, but so many pilgrims, like Jacopo, are not currently employed. 

As a full-time employee with permission to take a period of paid leave, I am a minority. So many I’ve met are students, retirees, or between jobs. A handful have even resigned on the trail!

To my coworkers reading this. Don’t worry! That’s not my story!

We found a nice spot for lunch - hamburgers and beers even with time for a coffee. I offered to treat Jacopo to lunch and he graciously accepted. 

It’s funny though, or maybe obvious is the better word, I’ve in fact been spending significantly less money on a daily and weekly basis here than I do in my home life, and yet I’m feeling fulfilled and satisfied with so much less. Maybe it’s a bit cliché but I’ll take the lesson.

We got back to the albergue just as the line was beginning to move. We retook our place in line and were assigned a double room. 

After the usual showering, laundry, and journaling, we agreed to explore the town which boasts, among other highlights, the Palacio Episcopal de Astorga, usually called the Palacio de Gaudí.

We explored for a good 90 minutes or so before stopping for beers in the plaza. I invited Mike and Pascal to join, and the four of us spent the rest of the evening telling stories, laughing, and discussing the Camino through drinks and dinner. 

Concerns of limited space in the next town were raised, but I laughed it off, telling them if there’s no room, I’ll just sleep outside, an experience

I explained I sought but was still unchecked on my bingo card.